In Livorno, there’s no sand. Actually, we call it “rena”—a word we use with contempt. We just don’t like it. Being di scoglio (from the rocks) is a mindset, a lifestyle. The rocks aren’t comfortable, yet Livornese people always seem to be. The rocky coastline of Romito is their natural habitat, where they arrive on scooters wearing flip-flops, and where they proudly “set up camp” with chairs, umbrellas, sunscreen, cooler bags (ghiacciaine in Livornese dialect), gossip magazines, and La Settimana Enigmistica (a famous Italian puzzle magazine). It seems impossible, but Livornese people somehow manage to get perfectly settled when they reach the sea. They spread their towels balanced between rocks, fall asleep in absurd positions, and always look at ease. And when they get older or have small children, they go to the Bagni—private beach clubs with all the comforts for families, but built from concrete. No one wants to hear about sand. The only beaches we have are made of stones. That’s just how Livornese people are: the sea, the sun, and the rocks mean everything to them. As soon as the sun comes out, they all crawl out like crabs. Charming, funny, loud, and tanned all year round—and if you’re not, they’ll say: “Sei un po’ bianchina, bimba” (“You’re looking a bit pale, girl”). And they’re happy.

My roots are in Livorno, even though I’ve lived in Madrid for 12 years. I go back home often, and I’ve realized that since I moved away, I take way more photos of Livorno. Before, it was always there, within reach—taken for granted. Now, when I’m in Livorno, I don’t want to miss a thing. I want to celebrate my city and the fact that I’m there in that very moment. It’s a rediscovery—Livorno seen with new eyes. Every time I return, I realize I must not lose sight of the beauty in small things. Simplicity, a slower life, family, and lifelong friends—that’s what really matters. I realize I need to learn how to slow down and not get swept away by the fast-paced life that daily routines and work force upon us. When I lived in Livorno, I was just like those people balanced between two rocks but always confident. Now, sometimes, I feel less sure of myself. My photos help remind me of this—that wherever I go, I’ll always be a Livornese di scoglio. All photos were taken using 35 mm Kodak film.

@giuliadiddi